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I’ve always been a big fan of Printrbots designs and products. I decided it was time to build our version of the Printrbot Plus platform using high end parts.
We wanted to build a printer that was fast, efficient and as strong as can be. Solid aluminum blocks were milled out to replace the carriage mount, x axis and z axis setup that is similar in design to printrbots plus v2. Recently we received 25mm by 40mm aluminum tubing to make the frame and support structure. This printer will be decent size at about: 10-12″ x axis, 10 -16″ y and z axis’s. The strong materials used as well as the design will allow it to be used as a CNC or laser cutter. Lots of new technology will be applied to this build and high end parts will be used.
The y axis already has aluminum bearing blocks and we plan to use aluminum for all the rod mounts. Abs plastic will be used when necessary, primarily for sub mounts and brackets.
I’ve worked out the main setup including the x axis rod mounts as well as the x axis ends that make up the z axis. The x axis idler bearing will be quite a bit larger than the typical 608 bearings that are usually used. Since I haven’t completely decided how I plan to do the base and y axis. I plan to make a little jig or stand that can be used to mount the z and x axis’s while I work on them. I took two pieces of square aluminum tubing and bolted them together. These will work as a base to hold the setup for now.
I found some nice, heavy duty endstop or homing switches that I plan on using. The x axis homing switch was mounted today. Only time will tell whether or not these new switches will perform better than the typical ones used. Right now I currently have the x axis at about 12+ inches which will be plenty wide. The dual rod screws in the x axis mounts help the whole top from twisting. Once all 8 grub screws are tightened onto the x axis rods it makes the entire section of upper parts function as one piece.
I have yet to decide whether or not I will use the dual extruder setup that I have or make a single extruder setup. More than likely I will be using a ramps 1.4 controller that I have. The ramps controller supports dual extruders so the only parts I would need that I currently dont have would be an extra hotend. I plan to run Ubis hotends on this build because I have found them to be reliable. I will update this post as the build goes on.
Update: April 12th 2014
Today I was able to start cutting the aluminum tubing for the frame. I’ve decided on parts of the frame design but, not entirely. Right now I’m leaning towards a frame layout similar to the Bukitobot. I have finished the main vertical support and the top horizontal portion. As of now I’m working on designing the y axis setup which will help determine the last portion of the frames layout. I should be able to update with some pictures tomorrow.
I started cutting and mocking up a lot of the frame. I still haven’t completely decided on exactly how the frame will be done but, I have enough to show a few pictures. I designed and printed a few brackets as well as motor mounts for the z axis.
Update: April 19th 2014
Today I started to design the end caps that cover the ends of the aluminum tubing. I figured it would take a few different attempts to get it right but, I was luck enough to get it right the first time. I also re-designed the x axis motor mount that bolts onto the aluminum mounts. I needed to shave a few mm off of one side for a better fit. This also gave me a chance to make a more user friendly z axis switch adjustment. The main bolts for the y axis support have been installed as well.
The plan right now is to have the y axis removable for easier transportation. The z axis smooth rod mounts also need to be designed as I plan to support them from the top as well. I managed to add two feet to the main structure for easy leveling. These feet also have a non slip under coating, that way the printer won’t walk during high speed operations.
Update: April 20th 2014
Lots of work has been done today. I was able to cut the remaining pieces for the frame as well as print out some more end caps. The end caps on the aluminum tubing are not required but, they do give it a more polished look. The y axis rod mounts have been designed and printed but I have one more set to go. The top z axis rod mounts have also been designed and printed. I still need to design the ones that will help to stablize the bottom of the rods. Once all of these parts are finished and mounted I will take some pics.
I have also been trying to figure out how exactly I should mount the controller bay. As of now it will be mounted behind the left vertical uprights. The power supply will more than likely be mounted behind the right vertical uprights. I’m trying to keep everything mounted very well for transportation reasons. Some of the wiring is planned to run inside the tubing while the other bits will be ran along the outside of the tubing.
I also wanted to give a special thanks to Gold August for milling out the ends and rod mounts. He definitely did a great job and they came out exactly how I imagined it.
Update: April 21st 2014
I was able to design a few 90 degree support brackets that will be used for the lower frame/ y axis sub structure. The design printed great the first time and I was able to print 4 of them in about an hour. The brackets are heavy duty and help to keep everything aligned. I’m still trying to figure out what kind of cable management system to use. the xbox 360 16.5 amp 203watt psu was mounted behind the right vertical tubing as mentioned earlier. I was able to secure it using a large L bracket and a couple zip ties. The power plug is at the rear of the bot, this keeps it out of the way during operations.
Update: April 24th 2014
I finally have access to a decent camera so I took a few updated pics on the build progress.
Update: April 27th 2014
A decent amount of progress has been done. I designed and printed wire organizers and pass throughs. I also mounted a wire terminal block so that all the wiring could be split off of the power supply. The rear cross brace supports have also been added to the y axis’s sub mount. The beds smooth rod setup will be different than any other build I’ve had.
I’m changing it a bit in order to fully support the y axis because the rods are fairly long. This will leave the build with a huge y axis as well as a large x and z axis. The z axis will come in about 15 inches, depending on how the bed is setup will alter the z height. Right now the x axis is about 13 inches and the y will be about 16 inches.
Update: April 29th 2014
Today I’m trying to tackle the y axis and the beds setup. I’ve debated back and fourth several different setups but, in the end I think I will use a setup that is similar to printrbots design. More than likely the rods will go under the cross braces in the frame with a center mounted motor. That will allow me to use at least two idlers on the y axis. I also need to reprint a larger RepRap Squad logo that goes on the top of the frame.
Most of the rods im currently using are ones I use for mock ups. Now that I know exactly how long they need to be. I can order a few sets. I plan to explore printable bearings, but if they are not up to my standards then I will have to order a set of lm12uu bearings.
Update: April 30th 2014
I was able to adapt the rear spacers for the carriage. Since I made the x axis carriage mount a lot smaller and lighter, I needed to add spacers to the rear so that the x axis belt could be attached. I still need to decide if I will add a part to adjust the belt or if I will add an idler similar to what I have on my printrbot plus. The advantage of an idler is that it can be adjusted on the fly but, it requires more design and effort to install. I will try and get some pictures today of the progress.
Update: May 1st 2014
I was able to get a few pics together so that you could see how the belt was mounted to the carriage. It came out better than I hoped.
Today I plan on sorting out the cable management set up. I want the wiring to be as organized as possible, that way everything is accessible. I’ve been working on designing different strain relief mounts to put through out the frame. I made sure to put some wiring mounts under the frame as well. right now I am printing a setup that will organize the wiring going into the controller bay.
Update: May 5th 2014
Inwas able to print and mount the rear corner brackets that help to support the frame. After adding these supports the frame became solid and doesn’t move in any direction. I still need to decide on the y axis setup as I want it to take advantage of the available space while supporting the rods as much as possible. I need to find a happy medium between rod support and usable print space along the y axis. I added in a couple strain reliefs for the wiring that goes into the control bay.
The cooling system has been wired into the terminal block which splits power coming from the psu. The controllers enclosure has a top mounted 60mm exhaust fan and two side mounted 50mm inlet fans which should keep the controller nice and cool during operation. The cooling system for the electronics also has a bypass switch but, I’ve wired everything to come on once the power supply is taken off of standby. I also plan on adding a couple leds. One led will state that the psu is off of standby, the other will state wether or not power is going to the extruder.
Update: May 10th 2014
I finally got some time to work on the build a bit more today. I designed the 90° corner brackets for the front that go around the motor mounts. These were a little bit difficult to do because they had to go with the motor mount as well as strengthen the lower supports on the frame. I’m currently printing off the left bracket set to see if it will fit correctly. If the left one turns out okay I will print off the right set.
I was also able to make the supports that hold the z-axis motors. The point of these supports is to hold the bottom of the motors, which will help to keep the z axis inline with the upper rod mount.
Update: May 13th 2014
I finally had time to finish printing and installing the front 90° brackets that go around the z-axis motor mounts. These two brackets helped to make the entire structure rock solid. I also managed to install the spacers under the Z axis motor mounts which clear up the gap between the base and the bottom of the motor. A few more end caps were also printed today to cover the ends of the aluminum tubing. Although doing this isn’t required I think that it gives it a clean look.
The list of parts that still need to be printed is getting pretty small. I still haven’t completely decided on how the y-axis will be set up. I’ve been putting it off a little while until I can do more research. I have about three or four different ways that I could do the y-axis but I’m still debating which one is the best for this platform.
I should be able to snap a few pictures of the build progress later today. Most of the major parts within the structure that tied to the axis’s are adjustable so that they can be fine-tuned once I get the new parts. I always use a spare set of parts that are just used to mock up for builds. That way I can order the pieces once the frame and structure is complete.
This 3-D printer is turning out to be exactly how I imagined it before building. It has a large print area while still offering up great portability. It will definitely be strong enough to run as a small CNC mill. I’ve also been debating getting a laser attachment for laser etching.
Update: May 20th 2014
I’m working on an auto leveling setup for this build. Printrbot has already created an auto leveling setup. I was able to find some parts that cost about .50 cents that I’m using to build the probe. I will update with info as I go.
Update: May 22nd 2014
I’ve been working out a lot of the smaller details lately. Things like heatsinks on the extruder motor as well as the X axis motor. The z-axis already has integrated heat-sinks built into the spacers and when I mount the y-axis motor I will add a heat-sink at that time as well. While having heatsinks is not a requirement, it helps to keep the motors running cooler which makes them last longer and perform better. I’ve also been working out my probe set up which will allow for the software to compensate for the angle of the bed.
I finally got around to printing off all the end caps for the aluminum tubing. Next I plan to tackle the y-axis and print bed set up. Once it’s finished I will have to pull the whole thing apart, sand it down, etch and prep the aluminum tubing for paint.
Update: May 25th 2014
I decided to take some time today to figure out where I wanted to mount the spools. Some people integrate them into the design and others just assume the end-user can figure it out for themselves. Using a tabletop mounted spool was also an option but, for the most part I wanted this build to be self-contained. I wanted transports to be as easy as possible as well as keeping set up times to a minimum. After playing with different spool mounting options I came up with a three-point spool mounting system.
This setup allows you to mount a spool either horizontally or vertically depending on your needs. It also supports two spools at once for dual extruder printing. Realistically you could mount up to 3 spools at one time with two of them being mounted vertically and one mounted horizontally. No matter which mount you use. The transition is easy and only requires a couple easy to remove bolts.
Today I will also start to tackle the bed mount system. I will be using a three-point adjustment for the bed because it is a lot more reliable and easier to tune. Four-point systems work but, tend to be a lot more finicky and involved to tune correctly. I am also going back-and-forth whether or not to add to heated beds or just one. I have enough space to run two 8×8 beds stacked one after another. Doing this would give me about 8×16 inches of heated print surface.
Update: May 26th 2014
I started ordering some parts to replace the mockup pieces. Today the threaded rod arrived and it was surprisingly straight. The z axis threaded rods are about 20″ long on each side. I used a custom pair of matching Kysan motors for the z axis. I still need to order 3 more large Kysans for the x, y and extruder.
The z axis threaded rods are cut a little bit longer than required. I did this so I could add handles at the top of each rod. These handles make for quick and accurate manual adjustments. For anyone that is an avid user, this is must. I also finished up all the matching spool mounts.
Update: July 3rd 2014
I just got the parts in for the horizontally mounted spool roller. This will offer up a spool feed system that is mounted on the middle section on the top of the frame. Including the 2 side mounts, up to 5 spools can be mounted on the frame. I also installed quick release knobs for the spool mounts so that they can quickly be removed.
The horizontally mounted spool holder is adjustable to fit just about any size spool. The two vertically mounted spool holders will hold a large range of spool sizes.
Update: July 11th 2014
Recently a decent amount of time has been spent wiring the cooling system as well as the main power switch. The main power switch will take the xbox psu off of standby. The electronics bay has 3 fans. Two exhaust fans and one intake. I have carefully designed an airflow path to optimize cooling. I used quick disconnect plugs that lock for each fan which allows any of them to be moved or turned off.
I have also started working on the dual extruder setup that I will use for this build.
Update: July 3rd 2014
As you may of noticed, I haven’t updated this post in a little while. This has been due to lots of exciting things going on behind the scenes at RepRap Squad. I have however, recently had some free time to work on this beast.
I purchased some smaller spiral wrap for some of the cable sets that are located within the electronics bay. I spent some time today organizing those wires as well as making sure that all the fans are working. So far this setup has 3 fans to cool the electronics bay. Two of those fans are inlets and the one mounted on the lid is an outlet. I did this intentionally to create an efficient airflow pattern. Cold air from down low push in from both sides making the warm air exit upwards.
Luckily I had a few quick moments to take a couple pics of the progress.
Update: July 4th 2014
I had some free time so I started to design the cable management setup that will be mounted behind the left vertical frame riser. The cabling that will be held up will be for the two Bowden extruders that will be mounted right above each spool.
I plan on designing a bracket that will hold each Bowden setup. I may or may not move the side spools downwards to make room for the dual Bowden setup.
July 7th 2014
I was able to print a few test brackets that will go behind the vertical risers on the left. I will probably end up changing the design a little bit but these test pieces let me know where everything will go. I also had to keep in mind, a possible third extruder. Currently the plan is to use a dual Bowden extruder setup and each Bowden gear set will be mounted directly above its corresponding spool.
The cable management design will hold wiring for up to three Bowden extruders and top mounted task lights. With this specific build I am trying to keep in mind any future upgrades as well as possible mods. Everything is self-contained within the build.
Since I have made the recent decision to go with a dual extruder and possible triple extruder. I will need to add another mount for a second psu. I haven’t decided if I will add a second 203watt xbox psu or go with a laptop psu for my second supply.
Update: July 8th 2014
Testing out new filament from PushPlastic gave me an opportunity to print the laptop psu mounts. This printer will have two power supply’s. The largest one is enough to power an extruder and heated bed, while the laptop psu will power the 2nd extruder. Once I add a larger bed and a possible triple extruder setup, I will need to swap out the laptop psu for a 2nd 203 watt xbox psu that I have. With the 2 xbox psus I will be running about 400 watts @ approx 35 amps between the two. The laptop psu and the single xbox psu would offer up about 22 amps. I am a big fan of the xbox psus as they have lots of built in features, active cooling and a great shape that works with a lot of platforms.
So far I am very impressed with PushPlastics filament. Later this week I plan to test out other filaments from PushPlastic as well as some HIPS from Extrudables. I will do a separate post for the tests of those filaments. They will be done in multiple colors along with a few samples of MakerGeeks. If you would like to mod an xbox psu to work with your RepRap, I have a post on how to do it. Use the search bar to find the write up.
Update: July 12th 2014
I was able to get the laptop Psu mounted along side the larger Xbox Psu. It’s a perfect fit and doesn’t really take up any extra space. I also managed to put together the mount for handheld LCD/controller. I wanted to make sure that the mount was adjustable as well as being viewable when it’s set on a tabletop. I ended up coming up with a great mounting system that made both these options available.
I often get emails and questions from people asking what we are working on besides what we post on here. We are constantly working on different projects, printing techniques, the use of different materials as well as many other things. Some more exciting than others. I decided to dedicate a post that will be updated as we go. This will serve as a platform for our daily or weekly projects. We will also post the results from our experiments and tests. This will hopefully not only let you know what’s going on around this crazy place but, it should give you some tips and tricks that you can implement into your own 3D printing.
Thanks to another member of the RepRap Squad family, we now have access to a dedicated shop that we can move all our equipment into for all the heavy duty work. We’ve always had a shop but, it was much smaller and housed a lot of non related materials. This is the new one we will be doing all our larger builds in as well as anything that needs some precision machines.
February 13th 2014:
Today we have spent a decent amount of time working out as few small kinks with the JunkBot as well as starting the long task of transferring a lot of its design over to STL files. A good portion of JunkBot’s build was done old school with pencil, rulers and paper. We want to make the majority of its parts printable, that way anyone can adapt the files or only use the ones they want. We have been working on getting all those files organized as well as photos taken of the actual physical parts.
Another thing we have been working on is different ways to wire a heated bed to different platforms to make swapping out print surfaces a lot easier. We prefer to use a larger Lexan plate for PLA and a smaller mk2 heated bed with glass for ABS. Having multiple plates that are easily swapped out saves us a lot of time when printing big projects. We are currently experimenting with different locking, quick disconnect wiring setups for the heated bed. Another test we have done is to embed strong but small rare earth magnets within the removable sheets of Lexan.
Our last series of tests for the day is print surfaces. In the past we tested out quite a few different kinds but, just as new types of filament come out. So do the ideas of new print surfaces. Time is also spent testing variations of common and not so common print surfaces. Such as soda blasted glass and Lexan. We will also be testing trex, synthetic hardwood and hard board. All in natural and alternative surface treatments. Making and using various print surfaces is quite time consuming so it is assumed that we will spend at least part of the next few days or so testing these options out.
February 14th 2014
We discovered a short in the wiring of our main extruder today. The 2nd extruder has been performing correctly so we just replaced the thermistor and resister wiring. The short was contained in the wiring for the resister but, we figured since we already had a full set of spares that we would replace both. Today we plan to continue testing on different print surfaces as well as also getting some dimensions from the JunkBot for a fellow builder.
February 20th 2014
A good deal of time today has been spent revamping out print bed setup on our printrbot plus hybrid. We were finally able to get a hold of some really thick Lexan. Its a bit long and not as wide as we wanted but, it was free. It will serve as a great test platform before we spend the money on a sheet as it starts to get fairly expensive when your using high quality Lexan that is the size and thickness that is required.
I wanted to suspend the piece about 5+mm above the sub mount in order to see how flat it actually is. I modified a setup that I found on thingiverse in order to have a lot of mounting support. This will keep it as flat as possible while still being able to eventually adapt it to our quick bed swap setup. I’ve printed all the required mounts and all I have left is to install it as well as test it to see how flat it actually is. I will be using a very accurate dial gauge which will let me know if it’s off even if it’s not visually imperfect.
February 21st 2014
Finally finishing the mounting of the new 10mm thick sheet of Lexan, we were able to do a few test prints. The first few prints came out great and I plan to continue testing today. The layer that is on top of the Lexan plate comes out very smooth and is definitely the type of finish we look for. Testing from the synthetic hardwood print bed has been inconclusive. I have figured out that the surface needs to be treated, more than likely I will use various grits of sandpaper and test some more.
More testing on the Lexan plate as well as the other experimental print surfaces will hopefully lead to a usable surface that meets all our requirements. We want to try to stay away from expensive consumables such as kapton, blue tape and hairspray. If we can’t go completely without these than we would like to limit the use of as much as possible.
We are also working on organizing all of the files and designs for the JunkBot build so that our friend in Australia can make progress on their JunkBot build. Some files used on the JunkBot are from thingiverse, Github and our own custom designs. We will also add our custom designs to thingiverse as previously stated. Here are a few early pics of the JunkBot frame being built in Australia.
February 24th 2014
We had our main computer go down the day before yesterday so a lot of time has been allocated to backing up all files. It has taken a lot of time to backup due to all the designs we’ve transferred over as well as collected. So far so good. The new work space is working great but, only a few small projects have been worked on in it so far. Im in the midst of re-designing part of the cable management setup on the JunkBot as well as the Printrbot Plus. We have been using it a lot lately and had to rewire the dual extruder setup due to internal fraying of the wiring.
It gave me an opportunity to see what needed to be done to make our wiring last longer. This particular failure was due to defect but, there is always room for improvements. The nicebpart about this happening now is that the parts designed can be adapted to both platforms. The PB Plus will be a little more tricky due to almost double the amount of wiring needed to operate the 2nd extruder. Our first thought was to buy one massive drag cable but, I later decided that wasn’t something I wanted to do. So I will be designing a custom printed solution.
I will start off with an already designed drag cable and custom make new mounts as well as a few other key components. Ive already designed and printed the X axis setup for the JunkBot. I am also building a track system for it to rest in. This will also help to anticipate its locations during operations. This is particularly important as it will be used in class rooms this year. I will update with more information and pictures both here as well as the JunkBots build log.
February 25th 2014
A decent amount of progress has been done in the way of cable management on both the JunkBot and the PB Plus. I was able to take a few pictures today to show what we have been working on. We could of just used regular drag cable but, we later decided that it would function as well as look better with a track guide system for the cable.
Posted from RepRap Squad HQ
After answering countless posts on PrintrbotTalk.com about where to find this or that. I decided to take it upon myself to start compiling calibration guides, diagrams, YouTube videos, how to’s and much more. This is a work in progress but, hopefully this will help people new to 3D printing as well as seasoned vets.
****In order to make this the best possible resource we will need your help. So if you know of a link, page, diagram or anything else that would help another fellow Printrbotter out, please either post it on the comments here or email us at RepRapSquad@techie.com and we will organize it into its own page. ****
Posted from RepRap Squad HQ
We have come a long way since the inception of RepRap Squad. We have now helped over 20 schools and classes. Our site has been viewed and translated regularly by almost 80 different countries. There has been over 30 3D printers built and countless parts, mods and prototypes. RepRap Squad continues to grow daily and we now offer a Twitter account for direct access for new news and help for makers all over. (Twitter: @REPRAPSQUAD) Our goals are many and always held to the highest of standards.
I wasn’t sure of what RepRap Squad would become when it was started but I wanted to be able to help the reprap community and come up with new ideas to challenge the minds of makers everywhere. I’m happy with the outcome and look forward to being able to help more schools and people within this industry. As of recently people are starting to be aware of the great effects that 3D printing will have on our future lives. Within the next few years 3D printers will become reliable appliances that will be used in our daily lives. We will be able to explore ideas and inventions in a real life format with a click of a button. We will download products instead of going to Wal-Mart to buy simple plastic items.
Today we lay the seeds of tomorrow. I’m glad to know that I am a part of something that will be ground breaking as well as something that will be remembered in the future. Our goal as a group is simple and can be described with 1 word, “help.” Help others realize their ideas, help people get access to 3D printers, help others to become masters of their own printers and to help the community as a whole in anyway we can. The 3D printing community is innovative and consists of some of the brightest people i’ve ever met. You helped to create this industry for what it is today and you will guide the industry into whatever it may become in the future.
So, go print a whistle or an action figure of yourself but, no matter what you do always remember to “help” someone else. Wether its building a printer from the ground up or configuring their printer to print Mr. Jaws, always be ready to give back as that is what this community is built on.
Soon as per requests RepRap Squad will be releasing some clothing that you can purchase. Below is an early view of what one of the t-shirts will look like. So if your interested in getting one, let me know and I will get your size and quantities. We are going to start out with some shirts and hooded sweatshirts and eventually offer other accessories.
Posted from RepRap Squad HQ
Printrbot Plus V2
– Extended Z-axis to 16″ from base to top
– Custom Bowden extruder (soon dual bowden) I was lucky enouph to have a good friend that I could reach out to in order to get this sweet replacement extruder. You can check out his blog here, which I highly reccomend as it is a good read. He is operating a Printrbot GO and is turning out some rather good prints.
– Upgraded to Kysan nema 17 Z-axis motors. All other motors are custom black to match whole setup.
– Custom built Printrstand with 180mm Antec cooling fan for electronics bay. 2-80mm inlet/outlet fans for power supply cooling and electronics cooling. Add on selectable LED lighting, 2×12″ tubes. Printrstand also has 2 x 12v auxilary plugs on rear, fused A/C inlet line and emergancy power shut off switch. Whole printer including Printrstand have black tube wiring organizers with mounts to protect all wiring. The Printrstand also has matching handles on each side which makes for easy transportation. The Printrbot locks down to the printrstand for transportation as well as during operation. On the back it also has a fully adjustable spool mount that will accomidate any spool.
– LED info lighting on bowden extruder. They turn blue when hotend and heatbed are on and red LED turns on when they are at predeturmind temp.
– Makerbot 3x end stop mechanical switches with LED light as well as 3x standard mechanical end stop switches for full control and safety.
– Arduino Uno to run LED status lights as well as temp warning sensors that if two or more sensors rise above settings it will text operator with warning and begin shutdown sequence for anti fire warning.
– IP camera. This lets me view my prints from anywhere via my Android tablet or cell phone.
– Extra Temp displays. Lets me see the temperature of the heated bed and hotend on an LCD display that will be mounted on the top Z axis stiffiner next to the bowden extruder. Another reason for this addition is to read temps more accuratly as pronterface has been known to be off up to + or – degrees. I average out the two readings. The temp display also has 2 warning alarms that are tied into my arduino UNO R3. When temps go above a pre set temp it sounds an alarm and send me a text message via phone warning me of a potential fire.
– RAMPS 1.4 setup with 5xA4988 drivers for dual extruder operation, Arduino Mega, stand alone cooling system, driver heatsinks, full wiring system (10×2 pin, 10×3 pin, 10×4 pin)
Recent Upgrade: Printrboard with extrudaboard for dual extruder beta.
– 12 volt 8 amp heatbed .
– Custom built all metal hotend with a two fan extruder system. This hotend can withstand very high temps for printing with almost all available filiments including nylon.
Recent Upgrade: Dual 1.75mm ubis hotends with 2 large Kysan direct drive extruders.
– Upgraded ACME rods for Z axis, anti backlash system with springs x 2 and precision smooth rods for (X=8mm,) (Y=8mm) and (Z axis’s = 12mm.) Lm8uu bearings x 8 and LME12uu upgraded x 4 as well as an extra set of PLA linear bearings x 12. New brass nuts for smooth linear motion.
– Z axis aluminum rod stiffiner and dual bowden mount with PTFE tubing from spool to extruder and then from extruder to hotend.
– Reinforced Y axis bed sub structure with aluminum angle rod as well as main bed reinforcment with boxed channel aluminum. These two modifiactios will limit bed adjustments before printing as well as help to keep bed and sub structure even and flat.
– High temp glass mounted on top of heatbed with a laminate foam core between the heated bed and glass. High temp glass also has blue painters tape that is cross thatched.
– All bearings throughout 3D printer have been upgraded to the best Italian ABEC 5 bearing I could find. (X axis idler, Y axis idlers, extruder and idlers x 2 and both Z axis threaded top mounts.)
Update: September 2nd 2013
I’ve made a lot of changes to my Printrbot plus v2 in the last month or so and I’ve also ordered some new parts including:
● GT2 aluminum 20T pullys and 6mm belts
● Linear GT2 gear idlers on x and y axis’ s
● Spider couplers
● MK2 8×8 heatbed
● Swappable lexan bed for printing PLA as well as 2 glass beds in 2 different sizes so I always have a clean bed ready
● Printrbots dual direct drive extruders, soon to be triple
● I will be widening the bed soon with Printrbots v2.3 kit
● M8 rods with brass nuts
● 3- 1.75MM Ubis hotends
● Heatsinks on both extruder fets as well as both extruder motors
● Custom built cool blue task lights
● 350 watt power supply with 2 seperate 12v lines
● Floating mount for printrboard and extrudaboard with multi-fan adjustable cooling
● 2 PTFE tubes to feed direct drive extruder from spool mount
● Custom built mountable and handheld LCD interface
● Tool and extinguisher mount for easy access
● Custom acrylic wiring management mounts
● Dual 40mm fans for ubis hotends
Posted from RepRap Squad HQ
Ive tinkered with bowden setups in the past but, ive never tried one on the new V2 pb plus. I have my spool mounted to my Printrstand and I would like to setup my bowden configuration with that. I know that some people say they have had issues with retraction and oozing. My goal is to limit or eliminate these issues with a few modifications ive been toying with. The bowden extruder I am starting with is a modified version of Richraps extruder design. It has been adapted for my PTFE tubing which is a little different size than your typical bowden tubing. I will also be using 3mm PLA to start with and eventually moving to the less difficult 1.75mm filiment.
I was lucky enouph to have a friend print me a new extruder mount as well as the modified bowden extruder. My Printrbot has been down due to upgrade complications. http://ei8htohms.tinyparts.netei8htohms has made some interesting improvements on the Printrbot GO. I would definitely spend some time looking through his blog. He has sent me some early pics of this extruder and it looks great. I cant wait to get them and start working on this bowden setup on the new Printrbot plus v2.
Ive recently been messing around with mounting locations for the bowden extruder. Putting it in different positions so I cqn measure the amount of stress put on the actual extruder mount. I also have to take into consideration that this will eventually be a dual extruder setup. So my mounts should preferably be A symmetrical. The mount seems to be happiest near this location in the picture. I will not however be mounting it in the exact pictured location but, somewhere close by.
Ive done some more work on the bowden setup to get everything the way I want it. Today I added a red LED light to the bowden extruder as well as got most of the wiring in order. The red LED is to let the user know that the hotend is at or coming up to temp. This is a much welcomed addition as it lets other people know that it is hot without having to guess.
The nice addition of the z axis stiffener made the z axis smooth rods completely unable to move in any way. It has made quite an improvement as well as letting me mount the bowden extruder in tye best possible position. This position puts the least amount of pull on the extruder carriage. This is important for a smooth transition of positions during operation. All in all im happy with the modifications to date. There will inevitably be at least a few more modifications. Some of those mods will include a printed cover for the x axis rod mounts that can be found on thingiverse. Also I will be making some sort of change to the z axis nut carriers which can be found on thingiverse as well. Im not sure if I will make my own solution to this part or use the one on TV. Some other changes that will be made include: Acme rods, nuts, GT2 belts, aluminum pullys, eventually an enclosure and a custom extruder to help eliminate drip from the bowden setup.
I know that the bowden design isn’t perfected yet. That is one reason im building an all metal hotend of my own design that has been resting in the RepRap Squad archives since the bowden concept was conceived. It has been taken out for update many times and is ready to be made into a functional piece. This design looks somewhat similar to the E3D all metal design on the outside but has some very different concepts applied internally. It has a very sharp melt zone and can be ran with or without the use of a fan unlike most all metal hotends. Mine will be ran with a custom made muffin fan that is double as deep compared to most fans being used currently in the market. I will eventually open source the design once I have made the prototype to RepRap Squad standards.
Current Projects: Status
* Wades extruder LC build: I’m making both regular LC and bowden versions. So far I have adjusted designs and made 1st versions. I will make another one to finalize designs and then it will be off to testing.
* Printrbot LC extruder build: I have also made the first version. It is now going to the final build made out of acrylic.
* Printrbot upgrade: I have ordered all parts needed so far to change my Printrbot original over to a Printrbot + LC V2. Parts should arrive within the next week and then I will start the task of changing over to the new V2 Printrbot +.
Update—> We are about 90% finished with the change over to the new Printrbot.
* Extruder issues: I recently had my extruder broken and the 2 LC models I’m making still have to many kinks to work out before a functional model is done. I need to figure out what to do with this task but, I have some time due to PB upgrades.
* Printing a Future Foundation: I’m still excepting donations but, classes have been paused with exception for tech support due to upgrades.
* 5- Axis Reprap: Still under construction. As per my huge backlog of projects most of the work on the 5-Axis reprap is being done in Arizona and updates are being sent to me periodically.
* Printrbot Home: This is still in the design phase. I am making a modified version that will fit the new Printrbot LC+ V2. The previous version would only fit the LC at best with a few clearance issues. The new version I am building will also offer additional support for travel and printing stability.
* New aluminum hot end: After a few years of part time design I will finally be creating my aluminum hotend. I will be heading to Washington in the next few weeks to build this new hotend. I will be building it in a full machine shop using primarily a lathe for its construction.
* Elsa i9: Work is still being done on the Elsa i9. You can check the post to see the status of this project.
* There are several other projects that will be updated as they are announced*
We are now officially starting a foundation called, Printing A Future Foundation: Its a foundation based on the idea that it is important for kids through teens in schools and other locations to have the tools they need for future industry. Classes and clubs will have access to these printers, such as: Science classes, shop rooms, rocket clubs and many many more. We are not going to stop there, we want to get as many people that would like access to a printer the opportunity to do so. With peoples donations classrooms and people all over will be given access to their own machines. This will give them the chance to learn about engineering, rapid prototyping, design, manufacturing, and a limitless amount of other categories. With these tools the builders of tomorrow will have the ability to be on the cutting edge of technology.
We have currently taken a short break from donating printers as we are in the midst of research and development on behind building a printer that can be built using the things found around you. We want this printer to not only look good but have great prints as well. The goal is to be able to build a better printer for even cheaper than ever without making print quality suffer. If you have any parts, filament, or not so pretty vitamins. Please get a hold of us so we can continue development on this project which will make every penny count when it comes to donations. The completion of this project means we will be able to help more people.
Here’s my story:
So a while ago I started donating parts and time teaching classes to schools around Oregon/Washington area. I started collecting donations of spare parts including but not limited to: Filament, bearings, rods, hot-ends, etc. I received a few donations of parts from the reprap community for these builds. In the beginning I mostly spent my own money funding this project. Some of the donated parts are used to build full or partial repraps that are directly given to schools and other groups or organizations. While others are used to build fully functional repraps that are used to print a part kit that are later donated, depending on the needs of the recipient.
I go around to different schools and conduct a class teaching the ins and outs of 3D printing. Kids are our future so i think it is important to give them the tools they need in order to flourish in this industry. Depending on need and interest I sometimes conduct more classes and I am always help out with their future needs. After a few of these classes I decide on what their donation needs are; whether it be kits or fully built bots. The classes that receive these donations in turn print off more parts to donate to a group of their choosing. This has turned out to be a great program and is currently starting to flourish.
I recently received a cash donation thanks to Jim D. at a local Tire Store. Its people like him that are insuring that this program will continue for years to come. This is my current project and I wanted to share this with you. If you would like to donate anything-rods, scrap filament or any other reprap related items it would be great. This is a story to inspire you to help out with your local community and charity’s alike. Thanks to the people that helped out anyway they could as well as all the help you all have given me with questions I have had with these builds as well as your support during this project. Feel free to contact me about donations you may have. Every little bit helps. Happy building !!