Blog Archives

Printrbot Plus V3? – The Changes Of Life

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We had heard that some changes in the way of dual extruder setups would happen on the Plus but, we awoke to see that the platform had completely changed. The x axis rod layout changed from one above the other to side by side. This change is using what looks to be the same aluminum blocks used on the new Go V2. We also couldn’t help to notice that the bed rods or Y axis rods were moved back to above the base much as they used to be back with the old Plus V1. Its hard to tell in the pictures but, it looks as if the feet have been removed.

Its also noted that the final version may be different. This was the case with the recent release of the all metal simple. The first few set of pictures were of the prototype. In the final version of the all metal simple, part of the z axis was changed up a bit and looks much better in my opinion. Back to the new Plus’s platform. No word on what this version will be called as on their page it just says Printrbot Plus. Going along with the naming of their bots, I would assume that this new version would be called the Plus V3.

This new version boasts a 10×10 inch print surface with 8×8 of that being heated. All aluminum bearing blocks assure stability within the platform. This new version also comes with Raspberry Pi loaded with octoprint allowing users to remotely control as well as monitor their printer via video relaying. As with the other bots available, it now has the new aluminum extruder. We expect to see a release of a version with dual extruders soon. The assembled version of the new Plus will cost you $1,299.00.

Printrbot’s Information on the redesigned Plus

This is the new Assembled Printrbot PLUS
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While designing the most recent rev of the Go, Team Printrbot found a number of upgrades to make to the existing Plus v2.1.  With a 10″ x 10″ x 10″ build volume, additional aluminum Z-blocks, alu extruder, and Raspberry Pi, this new Plus is larger, stronger, and smarter.  Laser cut birch construction, an assembled Ubis hot end, 12mm Z-axis rods, all aluminum bearing blocks, 3/8″ Acme rods, GT2 belts/pulleys, and a sample of 1.75mm filament all remain standard with the Printrbot Plus

Parts Included:
Alu Extruder
Raspberry Pi loaded with Octoprint (control the Printrboard over Wi-Fi)
10″ x 10″ 10″ build volume
Updated metal Z couplers
3/8″ Acme Rods
Gt2 belt and Aluminum pulleys
Custom machined aluminum build plate
Power Supply
Printrboard: all-in-one assembled electronics with integrated micro SD card slot (no soldering required)
5 NEMA 17 stepper motors complete with cable ends attached
laser cut birch construction
hardware (8mm smooth rods, threaded rods, and bearings — ** Z axis is 12mm smooth rods  and  12 mm linear bearings )
assembled Ubis hot end
nuts, bolts, washers, zip ties
laser cut print bed
8×8 heated bed
misc assembled cables (no soldering required)
3 mechanical end stops (no soldering required)
micro USB cable
Sample of filament
Fan mount with Fan
Laser cut wood is standard 1/4″ (6mm) thick
*** IMAGES SHOWN ARE PROTOTYPES.  FINAL PRODUCT MAY VARY SLIGHTLY

Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

Inside: Printrbot Plus – Soon You Will Be Seeing Double

At RepRap Squad we like to try to give you the latest info from the inner workings of Printrbot. With the recent release of the 3 new Go V2s which are offered in small, huge and oooohhh myyyy sized. We figured that the newly revamped Plus 2.2 Dual Extruder release had to be right around the corner and we were right. We anticipate that Printrbot will be releasing the new option of having a dual extruder Plus without having to order a kit. That means you can buy it assembled now with dual extruders for the not so tech savvy.

At RepRap Squad, we have been a part of the dual extruder journey since its beta release. Us along with 10 others around the world had the honor of checking out the ups and downs of the dual E setup. When the beta came out it was definitely for the advanced user as Printrbot had just started to dip their toes into the multi-extruder field found within the 3D printing industry. Quite a bit of time has passed and I can now say that they have tamed the beast. We anticipate that Printrbot will offer the new dual E setups with their gorgeous aluminum extruder.
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The main issue with the beta was being able to secure both hotends and still be able to adjust them fairly quickly. They came back at us with the production version which offered up an aluminum extruder mount that was easily adjusted. Brook as well as many others at Printrbot listened to every issue we encountered with beta no matter how big or small. I must say that I was truly impressed when we received the production version after the beta. Overall its a great setup and we think that dual heads will soon become the standard within the industry.

Dual extruder setups doesn’t just mean that you can print in two colors. It also means that you can print using two different types of materials. Companies like MakerGeeks.com have come out with tons of new types of filaments. They have filaments that can be used to support your print and when you want to remove that support. You can by using water out of your tap. The combination of new filaments and multi-head extrusion allows you to print parts that were originally thought to be impossible.

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Slic3r, Repetier and other software companies have seen the use of multi-head extrusion grow recently. They responded by adding in controls and new features that allow you to set everything up easier as well as control your printer in ways that used to be quite difficult. This has made multi-head extrusion a lot more user friendly. We are excited to see the new possibilities explored with the new multi-head extrusion.

Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

Squeezing Every Inch Out Of Your Printrbot

Bed extensions as well as other axis extensions are becoming more and more popular as owners try to squeeze out every possible mm of usable print space. I’ve decided to give it a whirl on my already large Printrbot Plus. A friend of mine has a CNC and offered to cut the bed and sub-mount to my new specs. I wanted to be able to match it up to the Printrbot parts as well as styling. I took the opportunity to upgrade my rods and bearings as well. I purchased a set of 18″ hardened chromed rods that are specifically designed for 3D printers and other linear motion applications.
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The new bed and sub-mount were designed with two 8×8 heated beds in mind. I wanted to be able to print ABS as well other filaments using the entire print bed. The plan is to have an aluminum plate milled with pockets to fit the 2 – 8×8 beds into which will help to keep heating times low. It will also help to heat quicker using two beds wired through individual SSR’s. The thermistors are also planned as a duplicate. A friend of mine as well as a few others have already done this, so with a little bit of help I too shall run two beds. I will control the setup with a fotek SSR or solid state relay. I just talked to my buddy and he said that it does require a little more work than I originally was told but, it’s not rocket science. I will put up detailed information once I get to that point.

Update: I have got some updated information on how two heated beds on one platform will work. There are several different ways you can go about doing this, one way is to build a board that uses SSR to control both beds. The other is to use two pid controllers that run independently of the main controller. The easiest method to implement would be to buy two pid controllers that use k type temp sensors. They typically come with a readout display and you need to make sure they operate in a range up to 150. I’ve seen them for about $20 if you shop around. Amazon.com is supposed to carry them. I will also be using a basic temp sensor setup to monitor the surface temps in 2 places so I can help tune in the pid settings.
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Stock vs extended

For now my plan is to use a custom milled aluminum plate that is slightly oversized and swap out a full sized Lexan plate for printing PLA. I primarily print PLA so having a little bit smaller plate for ABS isn’t an issue right now. The overall length of the y axis is about 17.5 inches and I already extended the z axis to 16.5 inches. My only limit is the x axis which I plan on eventually making wider by a few inches. I have quite a few projects in the works and one of them is a modified printrbot plus that will primarily consist of aluminum parts. The x bridge and carriage have already been finished with a height of about 20 inches and an huge x axis at 16 inches. More than likely it will have a 16-17+ y axis. This is about as large as I have been able to reliable extend the plus’s platform.

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Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

Taking Our Printrbot Plus To The Next Level

Update: January 11th 2013
Only a few more days until we start to transform our printrbot plus v2 into a mostly aluminum beast. We will also install our pb dual extruder production kit and the details of that will be documented under, “Dual extruder production version.” That way we can keep everything organized for easier referencing. The dual extruder production kit also has upgraded aluminum parts which will go nicely with these upgrades.

We have done a few upgrades to our printrbot plus V2 in order to get it ready for a quad extruder setup. GoldAugust helped us at RepRap Squad to come up with a solution that will take our printrbot plus to the next level. When you are talking about the added weight of more extruders, stability can become an issue because it can be a lot of weight to speed up as well as to slow down. The printrbot plus was obviously not designed with quad extruders in mind even though I believe the stock platform could handle it. I just don’t think it would be able to over a long period of time with constant use, without serious wear. The platform itself is a great base however and can easily be upgraded to handle the weight of 4 extruders, with at least 2 of them being direct drive. So we decided to address any weaknesses within the plus v2.
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While we have everything apart we might as well extend the y axis (bed). The new 8mm rods measure in at a little over 17 1/2″, this will translate into about 3 – 3 1/2+” of added usable print space in the y axis direction and the width staying almost stock at a little over 9″. My z axis had already been upgraded prior to give me about 16″+ of usable height. This will change the overall plus’s print space to about 16+x16x9 inches or 404x404x230 if you use mm.

Another upgrade that will take place is the upgrade of a few weak spots on the plus V2’s platform. Printrbot has already addressed most of these issues with the release of the plus v2.1. One of those upgrades is to change out all of the bearing block mounts to aluminum. The reason for this is simple, aluminum is light, strong and won’t warp within these operating conditions. I already upgraded the mounts that hold the z axis rods into place initially after building my plus. That leaves the y axis, z axis on the bridge (carriage) and the x axis. Taking on this challenge the designer, GoldAugust also wanted to figure out a setup for the x axis rod mounts as we as the nut traps for the z axis. The z axis nut traps have been known to allow slippage or in some cases binding.

With these upgrades this plus will be ready for its ultimate goal and that goal is eventually quadruple extruders. The aluminum parts will give it the added strength required to move as well as stop a much heavier carriage. Also we recently upgraded all of our motors to Kysans, which are definitely the best bang for your buck as they run very cool, high holding torque and are made of high quality parts.

I will also test out the running the smaller kysan motors on the extruders. They have less torque then the longer kysan motors but, they are also almost half the weight. This would allow me to use the larger kysans for the z axis, which would be better suited for any added weight. If the weight of the new aluminum parts is even a slight issue, we will redesign the parts with milled out pockets to shave of any weight that may be an issue. Really the only parts that may be effected by added weight would be the extruder mount (carriage or shuttle) as the z axis setup can more than handle the weight and it doesn’t have acceleration/deceleration kinetic energy that the extruder mount does. With the new extruder mount we will be getting rid of quite a few layers of wood as well, this will help eat up some of the weight difference.

GoldAugust is using Inventor to design all of these parts and from early design pictures I can tell he is very talented.

Here’s some of the designs created in inventor:

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Y-axis blocks

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X-axis "shuttle " this is where the extruder mounts to

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X-axis ends which includes mounts for the x rods, nut traps and set screws to adjust the rods

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Here's a better view of the X-axis rod ends where they meet the z-axis rods

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The milling has begun, this will be the y-axis bearing block

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This render shows what the upper section of the upgraded platform will look like

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After we test out the upgraded aluminum parts, GoldAugust will be selling kits as well as individual upgrades. We will be taking lots of pictures of the transformation as well as posting overall results from the upgrade. More then likely I will try to get access to a good camera to take some video of the new mods in action. We will also do a few before and after pics so you can see the difference.

I know that this will greatly affect stability and I hope to see this translated into a better overall print quality. As you may have noticed, Printrbot has changed a lot of the parts on all their printers to work with aluminum parts as they don’t warp under these operating conditions. The milled z axis nut traps will also make a huge difference as I like many have had issues with them moving or partially rotating during prints which does effect print quality.

None of this would have been possible without the help of GoldAugust and I must say he is one of the best at what he does. Check back often for updates on testing, new pics and all kinds of greet info related to this project.

Here are the first pictures of the prototype aluminum upgrade parts for the printrbot plus and LC v2. The x axis rod spacing is different on the Plus v2.1 so we will be making a second version for the Plus v2.1. The front plates have covers that can be custom ordered to make your printer truly yours. The ones pictured are just some samples of what we came up with. When GoldAugust starts to sell these we more than likely won’t be able to sell you covers with the printrbot logo as I’m pretty sure it’s under copywrite and we definitely wouldn’t want to step on any toes.

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These are the front plates that can be customized to make your style truly come out

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Here's my extended y axis which brings the overall length to 17.5"!!

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A thing of beauty!!

Eventually some of these add ons and mods will be available for sale through GoldAugust. We will not be able to sell anything that is of Printrbot’s designs due to copyright for non commercial use. We will however be coming out eventually with aluminum upgrades and extensions for the printrbot plus, LC V2’s and V2.1’s.

With all the interest and questions about these parts I’ve decided to add a few more pictures.
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I had to show that I'm a proud printrbot plus owner

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This is the right side of the x bridge with built in x rod mounts

I’ve added a few more pictures so you can get a better idea of how it goes together.
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Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

New Mods, Same Printrbot Plus V2

I decided to go ahead and do a complete overhaul on my printrbot plus V2 in anticipation of the dual extruder production version that should be coming out soon. First to go was my old belts and pulleys. I eagerly replaced them with GT2 6mm wide belts for the X and Y axis’s and why I was at it is put on a set of 20 tooth aluminum GT2 pulleys. I felt like I could do more to tweak my bot for better resolution so I went about seeing what else I could upgrade while I had it torn apart. The majority of parts were purchased via eBay seller: nrg24seven So far I am very happy with pricing and the quality of the parts I purchased. Good sellers are hard to find especially on eBay.

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I also decided to change out my Y axis idlers for printed ones the fit my new GT2 setup

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I had to file out a small half circle to allow space for the heads of the bolts due to the added height of the new idlers

I’ve never been a big fan of the tensioner setup on the V2’s, so I went about figuring out a new idler setup primarily for the X axis. I wanted something that was easy to adjust and didn’t require to much modification or custom fab work. One issue is finding a location to mount the idler without interfering with my current setup. I came up with a idler that mounts to the outside of the oversized washers on my current X idler setup. I used two pieces of aluminum and quickly CNC’d out the two side mount pieces. Once those were mounted all I had to do was thread on a nylock nut which will serve two purposes. The first purpose will be to hold on the X axis idler that is mounted in the stock location and the 2nd use is to adjust the newly added idler. That way I can quickly adjust the tension as needed.  I will attach some pictures asap.

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Here you can see the idler when it's slightly engaged

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Here's normal tension. I plan to add graduations so I can easily return to pre-set tension points

**As a side note if you have a stock plus or LC you will need to get about 2 -1″ washers with 2 608 bearings to make this setup which will replace the stock printrbot idler. I will go into further details and how to later on.

After that it was time to tackle my stock couplers. I have been and probably always will be a fan of spider couplers as I have tried many different kinds and I’m always led back to them. However I recently bought some couplers that look much like the ones used for CNC machine and usually have been known to be too springy for 3D printers. These look just like them except inturnally they are different. You can adjust the amount of spring and tension that they have which allows you to be able to fine tune your couplers. I bought them at the correct size for the rods I’m using but,  I always add a little PTFE tape or plumbers thread tape as it assures that there is a solid grip between the shaft, rod and coupler. This can also be used if your coupler holes are a little too big for your rods or shafts. Just make sure to wrap them very tight when applying the PTFE tape. That way the tape will bond better with itself as well as the threaded rod.

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After installing and adjusting these couplers, they seem to be everything I was told that they would be

I also just recently got some bowden tubing that is supposed to be better than PTFE tubing. I was able to get about 30 plus FT of it. Quick tests look good so far but, I will post new information once tested side by side. I have my dual extruder setup so I will run standard PTFE on one extruder and the new bowden tubing on the other.
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After tinkering around a bit and trying to figure out a better non printed way of fixing how the nuts that the z axis rides on to move up and down. I was looking in some of my bins and I noticed a pile of wing nuts. Then it hit me, if I use the 1inch nuts on the bottom, a spring on top of that ND then an upside down wing nut on the top. The wing nut fits perfectly in the stock grooves with little movement. I had to loosen up a couple screws so that I could set the desired tension on each side. So far it looks great but the real test will come when I start printing. If this setup doesn’t work as expected then I might toy around with a wing nut on the bottom. I don’t know why I hadn’t thought of this earlier as it works perfectly with the stock notches. Here’s a few pics of it so far.

Update: October 28th 2013
I tested out several different variations of this setup and I’ve recently found that the wing nut is best under the platform. However I still need something at the top end to stabilize the rods more effectively. I will more than likely solve that issue with the first few prints I make. I will follow up with the final design as well as STL files.
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I got an idea from another member of the dual extruder beta testers. The idea was to split the fan mount and latch on the dual extruder setup so you can feed in New filament without un-latching the other side. I had some spare birch so I went about making two seperate fan mounts. Since the stock fan holes are soo close together, I couldn’t use the same style and just split it into 2 separate pieces. About half way down I widened the mount so I could space the fan holes out a little bit while still allowing the needed space for the stock setup. I just got done cutting the 2 pieces out and I’m about ready to test fit. I will post some pictures after I’m done mocking it up.

Here are some quick pics of the mock-up. I still need to make a few other little pieces to connect everything but this will give you a better idea of what I’m reffering to.
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Making a little headway on test fitting everything. Once I get the prototype how I want it I will remake any needed pieces and more than likely paint it to match the rest of my bot. Here is a picture of where I’m at today.

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One side is all mocked up

After mocking up the other side I started thinking about different kind of fan mounts. I have a couple fans that are a little bit bigger than the stock ones. I’ve decided to wait until I get my dual extruder plus up and running again before exploring these options any further. Mostly due to time in which I don’t have much of. I will update when I either come up with a more feesable option that will more then likely be printed.
Soon I will add the results of how these modifications effect my print resolution. I will also add documentation on how to add these mods to your printrbot.

Update: October 22nd 2013
I still need a little bit more information before actually firing up the plus v2 so I started working on bracing the x axis. The v1 had a solid piece of birch that accompanied the x axis rods which helped to stabilize the bridge. When the V2’s came out the re-design didn’t include this piece so I decided to go ahead and make my own. I grabbed 4 L shaped steel brackets. Two of them are larger than the others. After that I grabbed some half inch aluminum tubing as well as some custom machines bolts that for inside the aluminum tubing which allows them to be easily mounted. This is the first version and didn’t take to much time as I had all the required parts laying around the prototyping lab. After installing everything I am actually amazed at how much stronger the bridge is. My next few steps include beefing up the x rod mounts and the y axis bearing mounts.

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Recently I decided to beef up the brackets to all steel ones. Even though the old setup worked perfectly fine, I’m all about overkill. I kept the longer L shaped steel brackets and added an extra one were needed instead of the smaller 90 degree ones. Changing these two brackets made an aesthetic difference as well as made everything super sturdy. This modification took a lot of wiggle out of the X Bridge. Next I plan on changing out the x axis rod mouth to something a little more sturdy. You can also find a similar but printable version of the x axis stabilizer on Thingiverse.com I recommend this mod to anyone who has a printrbot plus or LC as its made a difference in the strength of the entire x bridge.

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Here's the cable carrier I made using some aluminum brackets and some 608 bearings. It works well and has very smooth transitions across the x axis.

Since it’s been a little while since I last took some decent pics of the plus I thought I would post a few.
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Update: October 28th 2013
Getting all my endstops or homing switches and order I realized that leveling the bed on the printrbot Plus is a pain. I was aware of this issue in the past but until lately it never bothered me so much. So I decided to redesign the platform and due to prior mods it wasn’t as easy as originally anticipated. The modifications I’m referring to is half square aluminum runners that go the full length of the bed mount and sub-mount. Originally I had glass with blue painters tape on top but I was tired of it cracking or breaking due to temperature changes. I could buy high temperature glass but I figured, why if I already have Lexan sheets. Lexan works great with PLA which is what I primarily will be using as my heatbed runs on an 24 volt setup from a prior setup. I need to set aside some money for an oversized heatbed.

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This is the new bed and sub-mount setup that I came up with.

So I found a fairly thick piece that is between 1/4″ to 1/2″ thick. I wanted to use the thickest piece possible so it would help assure it is as flat as possible. Lexan has been used in the past with great results when laying down PLA. I took the springs out of the setup and firmly mounted the sub-mount to the wood bed. Then I built stand-offs that mount the wood bed to the piece of Lexan. Doing this helped to clear the extra bolt heads from the half boxed aluminum runners. I then replaced springs with little pieces of rubber that are used in CD/DVD players to produce shock protection in case they are bumped. I might add some rubber hose gaskets as well to give it a little more room for adjustments if needed.

I later decided to take off once again the stock printrbot LC bolt adjusters as they sit too tall and interfere with the fans mounted on the dual extruder beta. That’s one thing I hope and have recommended that be changed for the production version. The way it is setup makes it for almost any fan you may buy other than the clear printrbot ones not fit right as they sit level with the extruder tips. I will have to print some sort of new latch and fan mount assembly that will relocate the fans to a better position. It also has birch wood side pieces that come down the sides with no real purpose. I will add the new pictures as soon as I am able to take some new ones.

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The green rubber pieces are the shock mounts I spoke of earlier from a CD drive I had lying around

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The new mounts are definitely a lot more sturdy than my prior setup. Early test look promising.

Update: October 30th 2013
Here’s some new pictures since I upgraded the bed. I’m also testing out frog tape to print on as I’ve heard of great results using it.

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Some new mods before the new dual extruder update
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Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

GO Plus Simple Equals Printrbot

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Plans For The Future:
The simple shows so many great design cues from the high strength wire it uses to the beautifully designed direct drive extruder that we will be testing out shortly. RepRap Squad will be documenting the CNC Simple build as well as any mods we do. We couldn’t ask for a better platform to teach all of our students about Printrbot as a company as well as 3D printing as a whole. Its almost like the Simple was designed as a teaching aid as it fits in perfectly with the curriculum.  The timing worked out well for RepRap Squad as well because we should be receiving anyday now our RAMPS 1.4 setup, which will be the brains or controller for our Printrbot Plus V2.

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Now we are able to show the spectrum of bots that Printrbot offers as well as show the different setups and how they work. The Printrbot Plus is one of the largest platforms that Printrbot sells as well as its brother, the Printrbot GO. The Printrbot GO is being re-designed for a version two that we cant wait to see. We would love to build the new Printrbot GO. A plan is in the works to build a CNC’d version of the GO V2 if the files are released.  Brook the owner of Printrbot is very good about giving back to the 3D printer/maker community.  We would assume those files would be eventually released after the beta version is tested.

CNC Version Of The Printrbot GO?
The reason we want to do a CNC version of the GO is to show the many faces of the 3D printing industry through Printrbots point of view. You have the Printrbot “Simple,” which is primarily for the person wanting to get into 3D printing without spending a ton of money. It is a very good and well thought out setup that has an almost plug and play setup. After that you have the “LC Printrbot Plus,” which is one of the largest platforms for printrbot. This is a great system for any user but is primarily used by the serious maker that wants to rapid prototype parts or products. However the Plus isn’t as portable as the Simple or the GO. Lastly we have the “GO,” This is the ultra portable larger Printrbot printer. It folds up to make its own suitcase and is for every kind of builder. It has the portability of the Printrbot Simple or Jr. with a size comparable to the Plus. Having all 3 of these printers will help us teach about the different kinds of printers and what their advantages are.

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You can tell that Printrbot’s line-up of printers was well thought out as they have a printer for every kind of maker/enthusiasts. RepRap Squad and its members have been and will continue to promote Printrbot as they have shown time and time again their abilities to strive as an honest and caring company.  Companies like this, the ones that care about the little guy are few and far between.  It’s refreshing to deal with a company that when they make a mistake as we all do say, “I’m sorry we forgot this, what can we do to fix the problem?”  They have proven to be a great business to work with by not only my experiences but, the experiences of countless other customers.

I thoroughly enjoy the connection that Brook and the Printrbot team have with the maker community. That connection is one of the most important things to have as a company within this industry. It’s not only good for Printrbot, its good for us as builders of all sorts. That connection gives us the ability to continuously push the boundaries of 3D printing. Unfortunately this bond is never created or is later thrown by the wayside when companies become, “successful.” I use Printrbot as an example of what you should not only do to have a successful company but, examples of things you can do to have a successful life. I have found many examples of skills and important attributes to share with my students. An example is a saying we have in a lot of my classes. “You can do it poorly or you can do it the Printrbot way.” The kids get this concept and is an important thing for them to learn. They are learning that its important to take your time to do something to the best of your ability versus just, “getting it done.” They see examples of this throughout blogs, Twitter and other social media outlets. This gives them a tremendous amount of pride in their work and they know that no matter what they did their best.
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So go out there and make something new, make something different and no matter what your doing or creating. Do it the Printrbot way, with everything you have.

Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

My Printrbot Plus V2 – Mods and all

Printrbot Plus V2

Modifications:
– Extended Z-axis to 16″ from base to top

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– Custom Bowden extruder (soon dual bowden) I was lucky enouph to have a good friend that I could reach out to in order to get this sweet replacement extruder. You can check out his blog here, which I highly reccomend as it is a good read. He is operating a Printrbot GO and is turning out some rather good prints.

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– Upgraded to Kysan nema 17 Z-axis motors. All other motors are custom black to match whole setup.

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– Custom built Printrstand with 180mm Antec cooling fan for electronics bay. 2-80mm inlet/outlet fans for power supply cooling and electronics cooling. Add on selectable LED lighting, 2×12″ tubes. Printrstand also has 2 x 12v auxilary plugs on rear, fused A/C inlet line and emergancy power shut off switch. Whole printer including Printrstand have black tube wiring organizers with mounts to protect all wiring. The Printrstand also has matching handles on each side which makes for easy transportation. The Printrbot locks down to the printrstand for transportation as well as during operation. On the back it also has a fully adjustable spool mount that will accomidate any spool.

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– Xbox 360 203 watt 17 amp modified power supply and another 24 volt 25 amp power supply ran through a SSR for heatbed.
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Recent Upgrade: I added a 350 watt atx PSU along with a laptop power supply.
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– LED info lighting on bowden extruder. They turn blue when hotend and heatbed are on and red LED turns on when they are at predeturmind temp.

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– Makerbot 3x end stop mechanical switches with LED light as well as 3x standard mechanical end stop switches for full control and safety.
– Arduino Uno to run LED status lights as well as temp warning sensors that if two or more sensors rise above settings it will text operator with warning and begin shutdown sequence for anti fire warning.
– IP camera. This lets me view my prints from anywhere via my Android tablet or cell phone.
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– Extra Temp displays. Lets me see the temperature of the heated bed and hotend on an LCD display that will be mounted on the top Z axis stiffiner next to the bowden extruder. Another reason for this addition is to read temps more accuratly as pronterface has been known to be off up to + or – degrees. I average out the two readings. The temp display also has 2 warning alarms that are tied into my arduino UNO R3. When temps go above a pre set temp it sounds an alarm and send me a text message via phone warning me of a potential fire.
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– RAMPS 1.4 setup with 5xA4988 drivers for dual extruder operation, Arduino Mega, stand alone cooling system, driver heatsinks, full wiring system (10×2 pin, 10×3 pin, 10×4 pin)
Recent Upgrade: Printrboard with extrudaboard for dual extruder beta.
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– 12 volt 8 amp heatbed .
– Custom built all metal hotend with a two fan extruder system. This hotend can withstand very high temps for printing with almost all available filiments including nylon.
Recent Upgrade: Dual 1.75mm ubis hotends with 2 large Kysan direct drive extruders.
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– Upgraded ACME rods for Z axis, anti backlash system with springs x 2 and precision smooth rods for (X=8mm,) (Y=8mm) and (Z axis’s = 12mm.) Lm8uu bearings x 8 and LME12uu upgraded x 4 as well as an extra set of PLA linear bearings x 12. New brass nuts for smooth linear motion.
– Z axis aluminum rod stiffiner and dual bowden mount with PTFE tubing from spool to extruder and then from extruder to hotend.

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– Reinforced Y axis bed sub structure with aluminum angle rod as well as main bed reinforcment with boxed channel aluminum. These two modifiactios will limit bed adjustments before printing as well as help to keep bed and sub structure even and flat.

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– High temp glass mounted on top of heatbed with a laminate foam core between the heated bed and glass. High temp glass also has blue painters tape that is cross thatched.

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– All bearings throughout 3D printer have been upgraded to the best Italian ABEC 5 bearing I could find. (X axis idler, Y axis idlers, extruder and idlers x 2 and both Z axis threaded top mounts.)

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Update: September 2nd 2013
I’ve made a lot of changes to my Printrbot plus v2 in the last month or so and I’ve also ordered some new parts including:
● GT2 aluminum 20T pullys and 6mm belts
● Linear GT2 gear idlers on x and y axis’ s
● Spider couplers
● MK2 8×8 heatbed
● Swappable lexan bed for printing PLA as well as 2 glass beds in 2 different sizes so I always have a clean bed ready
● Printrbots dual direct drive extruders, soon to be triple
● I will be widening the bed soon with Printrbots v2.3 kit
● M8 rods with brass nuts
● Extrudaboard
● 3- 1.75MM Ubis hotends
● Heatsinks on both extruder fets as well as both extruder motors
● Custom built cool blue task lights
● 350 watt power supply with 2 seperate 12v lines
● Floating mount for printrboard and extrudaboard with multi-fan adjustable cooling
● 2 PTFE tubes to feed direct drive extruder from spool mount
● Custom built mountable and handheld LCD interface
● Tool and extinguisher mount for easy access
● Custom acrylic wiring management mounts
● Dual 40mm fans for ubis hotends

Here’s some more updated pics:
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Posted from RepRap Squad HQ

V1 VS V2 Printrbot Design

Recently on the forums we were trying to solve an issue of the new Z-axis aluminum blocks fitting on the V1 version. After a review of the files side by side it became obvious that the aluminum Z blocks didn’t have correct mounting holes. This typically could be solved by drilling out holes to mount. The issue with that is the mounting holes on the V1 base are in the way of some of these holes.

Mounting Ideas:
A solution that I came up with is to buy the same thickness and type of wood used on the original.  That way you could use the original base pieces as a template. Then modify those designs to fit the V2 aluminum block mounts. Some of the pieces that holes the side pieces to the top will have to be relocated. You can used the design files of the V2 to make these adaptions as well as determine block mounting locations. All you have to do is print out the v2 base design in full scale and lay it out on top of the new cut out design. I refer to this version of the design as Printrbot 1.5. It would be interesting to see how this all plays out. I will update this post as solutions are implemented.

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You can see the cross braces used in the V1 design that are not in the V2 layout

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Here's the mounting hole issue

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Here's the 2nd biew of the mount issue

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Here's what the new V2 Z blocks look like when purchased

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